Monday, September 30, 2002

Ia Orana from Paradise....
Sadly, our Paul Gauguin Cruise has ended and we disembarked at 8am on 28Sept. We met some really nice people and I even learned how to say thank you very much in Ilicano (a Filipino dialect)... Malaming Salamat. The Filipino staff were awesome on the ship. Friendly, attentive and really sweet. As Susan and I embark on the land portion of our "program"... we cannot help but compare food, service and a variety of other details with the resorts we are staying at.
We were driven to the Papeete airport where we struggled with the ATM machine. Susan's debit card did not work and I had forgotten my PIN. Ah.... do not forget your PIN. You can tell that I do not use my ATM card too much. I usually save it for international vacations so I can get the local currency, instead of standing in line at the bank. I'm really not sure at this moment if the rate of exchange is better or worse if you use your ATM (mine is attached to my credit card) or exchange US $$. What I have found in the past is that US currency is better than travelers checks (for exchange purposes). We all know the benefits of travelers checks in case of $ being lost or stolen. Always make sure that you keep your travelers checks # list separate from your travelers checks. While I am at it (here is the travel agent in me) ... make sure that you make copies of your airline tickets and passport - keep one in a separate place in your luggage (from the real thing) and keep one at home with someone who you could contact if you needed copies NOW.Tip #2.... for your ship experiences and resort experiences .... pack an inflatable floatation device and water shoes/tivas. This goes for the South Pacific or.... anywhere you might find yourself enjoying warm weather, beaches, reefs, etc.
Okay off we go flying to Magical Bora Bora. Our plane made a U turn over glistening turquoise waters to make a perfect landing on the tiny airstrip on a "motu". A "motu" is a small sand island. Boats are lined up at the airport's dock to take the passengers to either their hotel or to the main dock in Vaitape, Bora Bora's main town. Our first hotel is the Bora Bora Lagoon Resort. We arrived at the resort to a warm welcome, fresh juice and a cool towelette. The grounds of the hotel are beautifully landscaped and the common areas were huge areas made of mostly natural woods, bamboo and reed. We were in our overwater bungalow by 10am. We unpacked and made it down the ladder to take a swim in the inviting water below. We were in a shallow overwater bungalow. Our bungalow had a bathtub and glass shower, 2 sinks and an enclosed toilet closet. Our large king bed was kindly made into twins, we had a glass top table you could slide back and feed the fish, a lounging couch, TV (not sure what you can get on it), telephone (calls to the US were about $3 a minute), coffee/tea making facilities, a safe (which I actually used), a writing desk and two lounges on our overwater deck. (NOTE: At the end of our ON LOCATION Reviews, I will give some insight about the fact that.... all overwater bungalows are not created equal. Also a little dissertation on Meal Plan versus no Meal Plan.) Susan and I ordered room service.... champagne and a cheese platter. We got hooked on cheese while on the Paul Gauguin (we were also hooked on cheese during our trip to France 2 years ago), so we wanted to continue the tradition. The champagne, Landon, was not bad at all. It was the least expensive (and things ARE expensive in Tahiti and we were having sticker shock after getting off the ship and NOW having to pay for everything.. even water). Our room service waiter was very friendly. There was a little communication problem (but this happened often in our travels here) and the staff's friendliness paled in comparison to the Paul Gauguin. The music in the lounge was french karioke.... a gentleman playing pre-recorded background music and playing sax or singing to it. The Bora Bora Lagoon Resort has 80 bungalows total including 36 Overwater, 14 Pontoon Overwater (premium). Many of the beachfront bungalows should be reclassified as Garden as they sit back too far from the ocean. Especially those on the left of the pier when you arrive. There is one pool suite that is beachfront that is really sweet and I would recommend.
The next day Susan and I rented a put put car (similar to Disneyland's Utopia cars) and circumnavigated the island (about 40 minutes total drive time) and site inspected several hotels. This IS supposed to be a vacation!!! Susan loves to site inspect hotels with me - it's fun and informative and she tells her clients about everything she learns (she is a skin care specialist). Our first exploration is the Haumana Cruise, which just happens to be at dock. I am not sure if my office has ever sold the Haumana but it has always made me curious. I am now committed to enjoying her 7 day itinerary before another 6 months are up. With 19 cabins this luxury power catamaran offers unique options daily between Bora Bora, Tahaa and Huahine. Most of the cabins are outside (but not all) and have big picture windows. The common area is laid out very nicely with big couches. This IS the best way to get to know this area and the tahitian culture. It is an intimate way to get to know this area of Tahiti and her people. The menu looked fantastic too. They are bringing in 2 other luxury small ships that will go into service in April.
We hopped in our car and continued to the Moana Beachcomber Hotel at Matira Bay. This is a huge lagoon area with the Hotel Bora Bora on the other side of the point. We were very pleasantly suprised. The property has a total of 64 Bungalows. All Bungalows have A/C. All Overwater Bungalows were actually Junior Suites - recently renovated to a very high standard. In the bathroom you will enjoy live vanilla vines draped overhead. It is a nice touch and adds a sense of the outdoors. There are 2 TV's in the bedroom and sitting room. 2 Suites hold a maximum of 8 people. The hotel offers 3 shows a week, Tues, Thurs and Sat with buffets or special menus. The water is perfectly turquoise and all non-motorized ocean sports are free. They even have water lounge mats to use (a great feature we have discovered). The hotel offers a once a day complimentary shuttle to the main town area - which is about 10-15 minutes away. In 2003 they are putting a Spa and Gym that will be open 24 hours a day. They are also installing DVD/CDs in all Bungalows in 2003. It seemed like a great property with a fantastic location and lots to do.
Sofitel Marara - common area site inspection only (no rooms available to see). Susan and I were not particularly impressed too much with the Sofitel Marara. The overwater were all very close to shore and close to the road behind it. The road on Bora Bora is fairly busy in French Polynesia terms. Especially with scooters and put put cars that sound like lawn mowers. We did not see the interiors - although the brochures make them look lovely. The outdoor dining looks very nice. The beach was not powder white sand (which is not as uncommon here as you might think). This property has a total of 64 Bungalows, 21 overwater, 11 beach bungalows, 32 garden bungalows. All bungalows have air conditioning. Bungalow #62 looked like it was the deepest and had it's own little covered overwater gazebo. None of the overwater bungalows looked inviting to get into the water from your overwater deck. This is an observation since we were not able to go into any of the bungalows. If you stay at the Sofitel Marara you can go over and use the facilities, snorkeling and beach on the Motu.
Sofitel Motu - Common area site inspection only as no rooms were available. You get to Sofitel Motu by coming through the lobby from the Sofitel Marara. It is a short 7 minute ride to the Motu. As we approached, it looked very inviting. We climbed the stairs up to reception area to be very warmly greeted by Hostess. The reception and dining area was a warmly decorated round building with a great view. The patio at the entrance had a small waterfall and water area with water lillies. There are about 3 little beaches on the Motu. The sand was white and the lagoon blue as far as the eye could see. The overwater had a sunning deck just off of the main outdoor deck (which I thought was brilliant). There are 20 overwater bungalows which all look inviting to me. It appeared to us, without going inside, that Bungalows 128, 129 and 130 had the most privacy and view of Bora Bora. #129 looked the absolute best. There are also 10 Deluxe Bungalows on the hillside (I had heard that they were treehouses but they are not.... but have stunning views through the trees). It actually looks like only 7 are completed. #101-103 have sunset views (facing west) and #104-#107 face the sunrise. All bungalows have air conditioning. There is no pool on the Motu but you can use the one at the Sofitel Marara.
Le Meridien Bora Bora... The boat ride to the resort takes about 20 minutes from the Bora Bora airport. It is a stunning location with powder white sand. There are 85 overwater bungalows .. several of which are Premium overwater - at the end of the walkway and most private. The 15 Beach bungalows are situated around a perfect lagoon. There is no air conditioning in the overwater bungalows (it is coming in 2003). The Beach bungalows DO have air conditioning. When you walk into the overwater bungalows you walk onto a glass floor about 8ft x 6ft. This is really taking the glass top table to the next degree. The interior design was warm woods with many native touches. The bathroom had elevated sinks (european style) and 2 suspended mirrors framed with drift wood. The deep bathtub was right next to the large louvered window, looking out over the bay. The outdoor deck offered stunning views of turquoise and aqua lagoons with inviting waters beckoning you to climb down the stairs and immerse yourself in the picture perfect water. Yes.... I would like to come back and stay here. The resort has a turtle rescue program. In the Resort's lagoon, you can snorkel with the turtles. They offer some excellent marine education and appear to have the most comprehensive eco-sensitive resort in Bora Bora. The view from the resort is stunning. It is the largest resort in Bora Bora but not by much. They have more room than any other resort we visited so spreading out is easy. You do not feel cramped (as we experienced at other properties).
FUTURE: Word has it the the Beachcomber is going to build a resort next to the Le Meridien. It is supposed to be completed in 2005.
Hotel Bora Bora - On Matira Lagoon and the most famous and elegant of the Bora Bora resorts (do I sound like a commercial), we were fortunate enough to enjoy lunch at this fine property and site inspect a Beach Villa. Right off the bat we were impressed with the Boutique. It has gotten to be one of our first stops at all resorts in search of the perfect pareo or other items we cannot live without. Most of the boutiques have not captured our attention but this high quality store almost sent us out of the resort with reduced assets. Lunch was delicious and well presented in their tropical elegant open air dining area. Below our dining venue there existed what would have been one of our hang outs if we were staying here... the beach bar. It is a picture perfect setting and, at the moment, THE sunset beach resort. With only 54 Bungalows, it is not only elegant but private. There are only 15 overwater bungalows, 5 of these are deep water with 2 tier sundecks leading directly into the lagoon. Overwater bungalows have 4 poster king beds. All rooms feature old fashioned type ball-and-claw bathtubs. There are 8 villas, Beach and Garden, that come with private swimming pools.

Friday, September 27, 2002

Tahiti 2002 with Melissa McCoy

It is bright and early on the morning after my birthday. We've had a couple fun and relaxing days. I am so relaxed I am wondering if I can remember when one day ended and the next began...
Wednesday found us sleeping in until... 7am! The beds on the ship are very comfortable and the curtains in our balcony room close to keep out the light. We decided to have our breakfast in Le Veranda - the ships fine dining room. It is full of light and delicious items on the buffet (for lunch too!). At 10:30 they started taking people over to the Motu (small island) for a swim in turquoise waters. It is a stunning beach - the ideal setting for sand between your toes and to practice up on your floating skills! Susan and I did our "laps" on the beach and then returned to the ship to prepare for our Waverunner Circle Island Tour. It was a perfectly perfect day on Bora Bora. A soft breeze swept over the ship as palms on shore sparkled with sunbeams dancing on wind tossed fronds... It's hard to get off the ship as the views of the whole bay are stunning. The Staff take care of your every whim. It is a floating 6 star hotel. So... off to my first try on a waveski... After a 5 minute lesson we (2 Waverunners and our guide) took off across the blue lagoon to circumnavigate the island. We stopped a couple of times to stand in knee high water, lather up a little more with sunscreen and shake out the initial tightness in the muscles. Then off to a Motu (there are only about 30+ of them around Bora Bora) where our guide husked coconuts for us, offer the milk and then proceeded to shred the meat for us to taste. I did not know... that there are male and female coconuts! He might have been pulling our legs... The male coconut sprouts from the side. The female from the top of the coconut and is... surprise.. sweeter to the taste. Of course us girls thought that was appropriate. We continued our journey completely around the island and now... I know where every resort is on the island and her Motu's. I must return and try out a couple other resorts here. The Le Meridien and the Sofitel Coralia Motu look especially interesting.
Susan and I will return here on the 28th and stay 2 nights at the Bora Bora Lagoon (an Orient Express Hotel). We ate dinner in Le Grill - on deck. A little night life and we were ready to hit the hay!

Thursday, September 26, 2002

Happy Birthday to Me! Tahiti!

Happy Birthday to Melissa! My husband had sent us 2 bottles of fine french champagne which we had in the in room refrigerator. In the Susan/Melissa birthday tradition... we ordered room service and proceeded to enjoy our champagne as we sat on our balcony - traveling to the island of Moorea. It was another perfect day - the deep blue sea wild with white caps as the tropical wind picked up velocity. I could not help but giggle inside - I was sitting on a balcony room on a ship in the south pacific. Sometimes you just have to giggle! As we approched Moorea we were awestruck at its beauty. I had been to Moorea a couple of years before with my husband and thought it was beautiful then but this.... was stunning. The jagged peaks jutting out from behind sculpted mountains... The two bays here cut deep into this side of the island and add to the overall dramatic setting. On deck, it was the Mai Tai party to celebrate our arrival to this inviting island. We put on our bathing suits and enjoyed our cruise mates and tahitian music and dance on deck.
Our schedule today included... lunch in Le Grill (the food is so fresh, varied and delicous .. I SWEAR I have been eating 92 1/2 % healthy!), a 1 1/2 hour massage, kayaking off of the "platform" off the back of the boat and a nap. That's it.. We did not leave the boat. The ship is moored in Cook's Bay and it has to be, beyond a shadow of a doubt, one of the most gorgeous settings in the South Pacific. I am pretty much a land lubber and the thought of an overwater bungalow fits my personality type to a "t".... But this ship, the casual elegant pampering floating hotel called the Paul Gauguin, has so much to offer... I can see why 2 sets of passengers are on the ship for the second week in a row. Just to add to this... EVERYONE we talk to that are cruisers say that this is one of the best if not the best cruise that they have ever been on... (I just had to get in a quick commerical).
The evening meal was in the main dining room and we met more new people that we thoroughly enjoyed. The nightly show was a couple performing a couple different acts... one which required audience participation. Yes, you guessed it... they picked me! And wouldn't you know.. they adorned me with a tahitian dance outfit - head lei, coconut bra and grass skirt. It was a mime skit and I found myself having to dance the hula and then be swept off my feet (yes - literally). I became the star of the show when my coconut bra slipped down to my waist!!! I had my clothes on but still... you would have had to been there! It was so much fun... I didn't mind looking like a fool. We took a stroll on deck to count the stars, feel the sweet balmy air .. was counting our blessings. It had been a beautiful day.
Today is Friday and I have already been to the gym. Susan and I will have a hearty breakfast and then we are off to rent a car and do some shopping and circle the island. I hope you won't mind if I tell you that it is absolutely beautiful outside and we are going to enjoy it. (just a note: I am in the Card Room which is where the 2 computers are housed for customers to send email. They only send emails at night - so don't think that you can "communicate" in real time. You CANNOT access the internet so you cannot pickup your personal email from hotmail or yahoo or... There are 2 big picture windows here - so I am being reminded that I have to get going. To make a phone call from the ship costs $15 a minute (ouch!). I have bought phone cards (about 7 minutes for $10) and will attempt to use them today on shore. I tried it on Bora Bora but it did not work. No doubt... telephone operator error on my part!
We are going to stop at the Moorea Beachcomber to see... if we can make reservations to do the Shallow Water Dolphin Experience when we return to Moorea in a few days. We will then go to the Sheraton to pick up a Spa Menu and a ... Pillow Menu. We will be staying at the Sheraton our last night in Tahiti. You might be wondering what a Pillow Menu is.... Hold that thought...
Until we meet again...Melissa

Tuesday, September 24, 2002

2002 Bora Bora - Bali Hai Birthday trip

Bora Bora - Bali Hai is calling....
My last update was just before the Motu Picnic lunch off of Tahaa yesterday. Here is how our wonderful time in Tahiti is progressing... The Motu Picnic was a success! Why? Food was... delicious. The mai tai punch they served in large fresh green coconuts (that floated by the way) seemed to be a hit - second to the .... floating bar. I have never seen so many people have so much fun while hanging out in the water. You can kayak up to the floating bar or walk/wade up to it. He does move around but he is only one and you have well over 100 people tooling around. I was wrong when I thought I could be on my floating mat. NOTE: bring your own floating mat. They do not provide you with this item so bring your own blow up mat. In fact, the word is from a fellow passenger... ANY cruise you take to a sun and fun destination requires that you pack your own blow up raft. Take note... I am and will bring one when I return to go on the WindSong (sorry - I must return and try all ships).
We had a delightful dinner with 6 other delightful people. I love the larger table environment, as you meet people you would never meet otherwise. We can always dine alone... why not get to meet some nice folks and broaden our horizons... Susan and I had a great time... After dinner we went to the magic show of sorts and then retired early... 11:00pm...
Leaping out of bed at 5:30am... I put my work out clothes on and went for a walk on the treadmill before the line formed (a very popular exercise venue). The deck was a little wet (it has been raining in the evenings and early mornings). Suz slept in, I walked and then had a cup of coffee and read in the lounge. At 7:30 am sharp, back at our stateroom, breakfast was served on our veranda. Susan and I stayed on the ship all day today. We both had a massage in the AM. Pool time was required before a really tasty lunch in Le Grill. Then more pool time and off to our facials. Take a nap, feel refreshed and time for sunset on the Pool Deck while chatting with new friends.
One of the things I love the most about visiting tropical destinations is being able to "sport" my favorite tropical clothes. Sorry... it's in the genetic pre-disposition. My mother loved fashion and I try to follow in her footsteps. I get to wear my favorite pareo's, tropical print dresses and... my barefoot sandals. Once I break out these items it is confirmed... I AM on vacation.
Well.. I have to go now... It's time to dress for dinner. It is Pareo night.... and I have a drawer of my favorites to choose from. Mmmmmm... what shall I wear?
Tomorrow... Susan and Melissa's great adventure is a Waverunner excursion (I get to drive first) all the way around the island. Birthday countdown... 2 days to go... Until tomorrow we remain... tan and happy.
'Aita pe'ape'a (no worries)Melissa McCoy and side kick Susan

Monday, September 23, 2002

Island of Tahaa 2002 Birthday trip Tahiti

Today we ate breakfast in the fine dining room (made to order eggs and great continental buffet) and are preparing to go to the "motu picnic". A Motu is a small island off of a larger island. Tahaa is the larger island. I have been dreaming about the Motu picnic for about 2 years . . . You can lay on your floation sheet and the floating bar... yes floating bar... comes by and serves you a cocktail while you are laying in the water. Yes, it is decedent. Today will be the first day to sneak in some sun. We've had a little rain (not unusual for the tropics - just in case you did not know) so I am fully prepared to do some baking today...
Okay... signing off...
Oh... by the way... 'Aita pe'ape'a - No worries....
To come: the cruise continues to Bora Bora and Moorea. Melissa and Susan spend one more week at Bora Bora Lagoon Resort, Tahaa Pearl Resort, Tikehau Pearl Resort and Sheraton Moorea.

Sunday, September 22, 2002

Raiatea Tahiti Birthday trip 2002

Today we wake up to the sacred island of Raiatea. Considered to be the "seat" of polynesian spirituality, there is much history and culture here. We leaped out of bed and went to the gym for our workout and treadmill session. Gotta keep those pounds from piling on! Then we had breakfast delivered to our room for dining on our balcony. They offer 24 hour limited room service. During regular restaurant hours, you can have anything and everything on the menus in any of the dining rooms. In the afternoon, we enjoyed the FaaRoa river and Taputapuatea tour - boat and 4 wheel drive tour. It is an afternoon tour and we enjoyed it thoroughly. Dinner was at the fine dining room and started out with Louis Roeder Champagne then on to white and red french wines. It was more of a gourmet tasting menu and was delicious. Foie Gras, Lobster ravioli, and a couple of other courses. The chocolate desert was too delicous. I almost took one back to the room. The show that evening was Michael Shapiro with the ships band as backup. Fantastic. He is funny and .... what a broadway voice. I get goosebumps just thinking about his singing.... The band plays great dance music and Susan and I enjoyed watching the couples swoosh around the floor. This is not the best cruise for 2 girls to go on if you're looking for action (which we are not - both married). No guys to ask us to dance. So.... we took over the dance floor after the show. They kept playing Frank Sinatra so we just danced around doing our own thing until they turned off the music. The moon was still pretty full and we found the disco (it is stretching it to call it that), the outdoor dance floor and no one else there so.... we kept dancing. I think we got in about 1++ hours of good aerobic dancing.

Friday, September 20, 2002

Tahiti Birthday 2002 continued

Happy Birthday to Susan and I.. we made it! We flew from Hawaii to Los Angeles to catch the Air Tahiti Nui flight to meet our Paul Gauguin Cruise. We stayed one night at the Ritz Carlton Marina Del Rey and would highly recommend it as a 1 or 2 night pre/post hotel stay on your way to Tahiti, Fiji or beyond. We stayed on the Concierge floor (incredible food and service) and sampled the restaurant and lounge/music. You can ride a bike all the way down to Santa Monica, work out in the gym or soak in the jacuzzi. The beds are dreamy. Today, Sept 20, is Susan's Birthday. We must have received 4 boxes of chocolates in a 24 hour period from the hotel. I like this hotel! I think I will have to stay here more often!!!
Air Tahiti Nui was a very pleasant suprise. Although the seats were quite close together, they were comfortable. Delicious coach meals (2 of them) and good french wine.... made the almost 8 hour flight go by quickly.
On 21 Sept we were met at the airport for a private transport to the ship. I arranged this to avoid the crowds associated with the bus arrivals. It went smoothly and we were onboard in no time. Customs in Tahiti is a piece of cake. They process you very efficiently and courteously.
Our Balcony room is what I dreamed it would be. Lots of storage and... a bathtub! I have never been on a cruise ship that has a bathtub in my room. After dinner (the food is outstanding) we enjoyed the band on deck as we set sail under a full moon. The mini bar in our room is stocked with softdrinks and beer. We are allowed to order 2 bottles of wine or liquor as part of our cruise passage. Wine is served, complimentary, with lunch and dinner. All tips are included (except dining on shore and tour/excursion guides). No nickel and diming here!

Thursday, September 19, 2002

2002 Birthday Adventure in French Polynesia

Ia Orana ....
Just in case this is your first time tuning in to my birthday adventure reviews.... Susan, my best friend of 30 years on the island of Maui, and I have been traveling together in one fashion or another for almost the whole time we have known each other. Starting in 1976 it was hiking and camping (we had no money), we graduated to camper camping in the islands, Yosemite, river rafting down the Colorado, kayaking the Napali coast on Kauai (4 days), camping on the Napali coast (in luxury with drop off and pick up - a full kitchen/coolers and the whole 9 yards), a Caribbean cruise 7 years ago and then our first official birthday trip to Europe in 2000. We spent almost 3 weeks laughing our way through France and Italy.... the Orient Express, Venice, small semi luxury inns, 4 days at a wine spa in Bordeaux.... lost luggage, regular gas in a diesel car (use your imagination), I drank susan's contact lenses (silly girl put them in a glass of water the night we had no luggage) and the incredible number of round abouts that we usually had to go around 3 times in order to figure out which way to go. In the Champagne region we stayed in a castle hotel and took a hot air balloon to celebrate our birthdays (we are 6 days apart). So this is how it all really started and now we have decided that it is a tradition. We enjoyed Fiji last year (we altered our plans from Bali) and were treated like queens. Vatulele, Wakaya, Namale and the delightful eco resort Moody's Namena (5 days of loving life and nature). Susan and I had also enjoyed 2 other Fiji trips together. The first 3 years ago as we did the one night at each resort circuit. This is when we discovered that Susan liked to site inspect. We had a blast! Last year Susan came down to Fiji for 5 nights to J.M. Cousteau resort to "experience" their duo massages, facials, and the massage/ picnic on the private little island offshore, kayak to the ocean from salt lake.... and as much as we could cram into 5 days.
You might be asking where is my husband through all of this? Well.... he is growing fine herbs and micro-greens for Maui hotels and gourmet restaurants on our 2 acres in upcountry Maui. We travel 2-3 times a year as well. He is not as keen on having me lug my computer around with me or taking 1-2 hours a day writing reviews. However, this year I am hoping to sneak some reviews out..... We go to New Zealand every year and keep discovering new and wonderful aspects of this wonderful country.
Thanks for visiting and I hope you enjoy Susan's and my 2002 Birthday Adventure in French Polynesia.... Tahiti!
Maruru Roa
Melissa